Detour #207: A Taste of Uruguay
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A cruise along Uruguay’s Atlantic coast reveals a sophisticated side to this undiscovered South American country.
The small country of Uruguay sits in between Brazil and Argentina, keeping its head down and enjoying some of the finest weather in South America. While most of its tourism flows in and around the nation’s largest city of Montevideo, fabulous roads running up the Atlantic coast reveal a rejuvenating pathway to beautiful beaches, great golf and fine wine.
Montevideo Photo Shutterstock
My transport for this romp through sunny Uruguay is the 2023 Ford Bronco, which is recently back in the Ford fold after a 30-year absence. The designers in Dearborn surpassed themselves in creating a striking small SUV to rival the modern Jeep or any other aspiring off-road machines. The new 4x4 Advanced takes the standard Bronco and points it toward the wilds.
The truth is that the roads of Uruguay are remarkably tame. They’re well-surfaced and don’t really test the Bronco’s abilities at all as I head east down Avenida Italia away from the cosmopolitan capital Montevideo. As the busy highway continues northeast nearer the coast, its name changes to Ruta 1B (or Ruta Liber Serigni).
My destination is the boutique beachside hotel of Bahia Vik along the windswept reaches of Playa de Jose Ignacio. Priding itself on its art and decor, Bahia Vik belongs to the larger collection of Vik properties running from Spain to the Dominican Republic. The hotel’s art collection is curated by billionaire owner Alexander Vik and his hotelier wife, Carrie. Patrons of regional art, the Viks choose the pieces found at Bahia Vik, rotating their collection to feature new pieces from time to time.
Wind is part of the country’s identity, especially along the coastal area. The South American trade winds brush Uruguay’s terrain as it tucks in along the eastern coast. While its distance from the equator keeps the country away from the oppressive heat that defines Panama or Venezuela, aggressive breezes drive a vibrancy across the countryside from the beaches to inland wineries.
Just a few hours spent at the hotel or the beachside bars and restaurants of Playa de Jose Ignacio reveal that the Uruguayans are proud of their culture and history – considering themselves as much New World Europeans than as denizens of South America. Spanish is their primary language, but English is an easy option for most of the country’s well-educated and worldly population.
There’s also the undeniable sense that the Uruguayans know they’re onto a precious secret on their continent. Brazil and Argentina are the bigger, wealthier countries. Peru and Chile are perhaps bigger tourist attractions. Ecuador has the Galapagos to draw attention. Meanwhile, Uruguay’s compact borders hold a healthy economy, beautiful natural terrain and plenty of elbow room.
Loading my golf clubs into the Bronco, I branch off of Ruta 1B to Ruta 9 for an hour’s drive to Los Tajamares Golf Club. The first certified PGA-Preferred Golf Course outside of the United States, the semi-private 18-hole championship track was designed by Masters and U.S. Open Champion Angel Cabrera.
While the course is far removed from the golden sands of Playa de Jose Ignacio, Los Tajamares uses its own self-contained water features to water the course and present challenges to even the most skilled players. If you’re a golfer who catches the Cabrera-design when the trade winds bite, the course becomes even more daunting.
Los Tajamares is home to its owner, oil baron and winery owner, billionaire Alejandro Bulgheroni. A trip north through his 10,000 acre estate along Camino Sainz Martinez and Camino Arco del Sol takes me to his Bodega Garzon.
In rolling, vine-wrapped hills about 100 miles north of Montevideo, the Bodega Garzon Winery makes more than 20 varietals. However, the property specializes in two signature Uruguayan wines, its unique Balasto and Tannat (made from the region’s favorite grape).
The Bodega Garzon venue plays host to Club Garzon, an elite subscription membership gathering exploring the country’s wines and cuisine. Attendees journey below the ground into extensive caverns Bulgheroni invested in to house his wine vats and bottle collections.
For more humble visitors to Bodega Garzon, the winery offers multiple dining options for visitors, winery tours, themed tastings and courses with master vintners on the creation and perfection of Uruguayan wines.
This may not be the kind of South American adventure that the Bronco was built for, but it is proof that there’s a very sophisticated side to Uruguay I wasn’t expecting.
Words John Scott Lewinski Twitter