Detour #271: Going Topless on the Kentish Riviera, UK
A roof-down road trip along the Kent coast from Margate to Dungeness reveals a glorious gallery of art, nature and science.
Driving along the seafront at Margate is certainly amusing. From the art deco delight of the entrance to Dreamland, past the long row of arcades, the entire strip is dedicated to parting tourists from their cash in exchange for the quick thrill of a win on the slots or a ride on the big wheel.
Yet just moments away is a more cerebral form of entertainment in the form of the Turner Contemporary gallery and its rolling collections of modern art. Look out to sea and you may spot Sir Antony Gormley’s cast-iron man – one of 100 such figures around the world that form his Another Time exhibit
The Morgan Plus 4 I’m driving is, arguably, a piece of art itself. The two-seater roadster appears little changed since its inception in the 1950s, but the reality is that beneath those classic lines is a modern architecture and powertrain. For 2024 Morgan has introduced some further changes including a simpler lighting design and fettling of the chassis.
I’m hoping that as I track the coast – the Kentish Riviera – I’ll find the opportunity to see how it differs from the car I drove to Switzerland in 2023. For the first few miles down through the charming Broadstairs and on to Ramsgate, it’s all low-speed stuff as each blends seamlessly into the other. It’s still early and there’s a chill in the air, but the seat warmers and powerful heater mean the Morgan can be driven as it should be, with the roof down, in all but the worst weather. My phone is providing tunes and navigation through a Bluetooth connection to a Sennheiser audio system that’s powerful enough to feel the bass through my butt cheeks.
Without really realising it I’ve climbed high above sea level and as the road winds past Georgian terraces there’s a wonderful vista out towards the harbour and beyond. Through Ebbsfleet and Sandwich the route moves inland so if you want a sea view then you’ll have to try to get a round in at the Royal St George’s or Royal Cinque Ports golf club.
Coming into Deal, Henry VIII’s castle dominates the coast. Built to defend against the threat of invasion it has had its share of bloody encounters which can all be discovered at this 500-year-old English Heritage site.
On past Walmer and Ringwould and the road rises again. It’s finally a faster stretch with a few curves to enjoy the Plus 4’s performance and handling. In Sport Plus mode it’s a little silly, with rather too many pops and bangs from the exhaust, so Sport is the way to go. There’s a row-your-own gears manual option but this car has an eight-speed automatic with paddles for a dash of extra interaction and control. It’s no slouch, even it is down on power compared to its Plus Six sibling, but really you don’t need more on the road. It’s a bit stiff over the worst bumps but the body control is good, the steering communicative and it’s thoroughly enjoyable to punt along as Dover Castle comes into view.
What began as an Iron Age fort became the Key to England after Henry II finished its construction. Even as recently as the 20th century’s two World Wars and the Cold War Dover Castle continued to serve as its country’s defender. Today, as well as exploring the incredible history, you can stay overnight if you wish to spend a night like a royal.
I press on towards Folkestone, taking the speedy A20 and even at 70 mph there’s not much buffeting and it’s still possible to hear (and feel) the stereo. At Folkestone Beach I pick up the A259, one of the longest A-roads in the UK, that tracks the coastline and reaches well into Hampshire. I pass the grand houses of Sandgate’s Esplanade and into historic Hythe, crossing the Napoleonic-era Military Canal and bypassing the Hythe Ranges. Fortunately, there’s no red flag flying to indicate the military is conducting live-fire exercises as it has done for over 200 years.
I continue beyond the massive fortifications of Dymchurch Grand Redoubt, the mighty sea wall and Martello tower. Another way to take this trip is by steam power on the scaled-down Romney Hythe and Dymchurch Railway. To my right is the 100 square miles of Romney Marsh, known for its popularity with smugglers and sheep alike. At New Romney I follow signs to Lydd, home to an airport, golf club and go kart track then turn towards the barren beauty of Dungeness.
The road in is fun and fast, but slightly eerie. To my right looms the Dungeness B nuclear power plant, to my left nothing but empty flatlands.
Arriving at the Dungeness Estate I find a truly bizarre place where million-pound modern holiday homes sit alongside fishing shacks – and all in the shadow of atomic power.
The word “riviera” might be associated with more glamorous surroundings, but there’s an incredible diversity on this short stretch of the Kent coast that’s worth more than a St Tropez tan.