Detour #277: Discovering A Poem in Stone on America’s First Scenic Highway, Washington-Oregon, USA
How could one resist a road dubbed “a poem in stone” or “the king of roads”?
Modelled after the great scenic roads of Europe and built between 1913 and 1922, the Historic Columbia River Highway blends seamlessly with the contours of the remarkable Columbia Gorge, which spans the length of the Washington-Oregon border. This road, tracing the southern edge of the river, was the first scenic highway in the United States, purpose-built for our road-tripping pleasure.
The highway was constructed primarily to showcase the area's historic significance, natural beauty, and architectural marvels. It truly offers something for everyone. During their expedition to explore potential routes across the United States from east to west (1804–1806), Lewis, Clark, and their guide Sacagawea discovered the breathtaking Columbia River Gorge. This led to the establishment of a significant wagon trail known as the Oregon Trail, which played a crucial role in the settlement of many white Americans in the West (1843). Notably, Chief Joseph of the Nez Perce tribe was forced to flee due to conflicts with the settlers. Tragically, his people endured great hardships along the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway, another remarkable and historically interesting road trip in Wyoming.
Significant development occurred after this period, leading to the construction of the historic highway and, eventually, Interstate 84 in 1957. Today, it's possible to explore sections of the Historic Columbia River Highway and experience what road tripping was like in the early 20th century. For a deeper understanding of the road's context, I recommend a visit to the Columbia Gorge Discovery Centre and Museum.
As I drove westward along the meandering roads, edged with moss-covered, ornate stone railings and crossing a myriad of historic bridges, I enjoyed views of the vast river and gorge wall on one side, and some of the most stunning waterfalls I’ve ever encountered on the other. The beautifully lush, verdant forest, typical of the Pacific Northwest, shaded the road while casting dappled light onto the tarmac ahead of me. Although many of the waterfalls can be viewed from the comfort of your vehicle as you glide along this brilliantly engineered road, you won’t regret pausing to explore several of them. Our favourites were Wahclella, Horsetail, Multnomah, and Latourell Falls.
This region of the United States is also home to several striking mountain peaks. Though not part of a continuous range, these mountains stand isolated, serving as beacons that captivate admirers from miles away. Mount Hood, Mount St. Helens, and Mount Adams are all visible from this road, with their snowy peaks contrasting vividly against the surrounding green forests and sun-scorched grasses of the gorge.
Set among the numerous valleys of the Columbia Basin that converge into the gorge, countless vineyards thrive. Even at the height of summer, when the gorge is bathed in intense sunlight, the orderly rows of vibrant green leaves blanket large sections of the landscape.
Serving as both a memorial to Oregon pioneers and a comfort station for travellers and road trippers, the Vista House at Crown Point is an iconic stop along the Historic Columbia River Highway. From here, we enjoyed one of the best bird’s-eye views of the gorge, river, and road.
Further along the highway, you’ll reach Hood River, a charming town that’s perfect for unwinding after a long day of driving. During our visit, we had breakfast at Bette’s Place, lunch at Kickstand, and enjoyed a beer at Full Sail, one of the many local breweries in the gorge.
As one of the most diverse roads I’ve driven, the Historic Columbia River Highway offered a rich blend of history and natural beauty. I couldn’t help but notice the European influence in the landscape, which felt somewhat nostalgic as we approached the end of our fifth month on this great American road trip.
Words & Photography James Hearne Instagram