Detour #117: The Glorious Roads to the Goodwood Revival
Photo Jayson Fong / Goodwood
Going to the Goodwood Revival? At Detour, we believe getting there should be part of the experience, so whichever direction you’re travelling from, let Charlotte Vowden help set the pace as she recommends glorious diversions to make along the way
Purring vintage cars, silk stockings and men in uniform. Yes, it’s all very exciting, but before immersing in the utterly fantastical festival of nostalgia that is Goodwood’s Revival, get into the swing of things with an old-fashioned slow and steady road trip. From vintage boutiques to incredible places to eat there’s an awful lot to titillate on all roads that lead to Goodwood. Featuring dreamy views and rural drives, here’s how to make the most of your journey time, before being transported back to a bygone era.
Broaden your horizon: best drives and big skies
Commanding 12,000 acres of the South Downs National Park, the Goodwood estate lies four miles north of Chichester, 60 miles from London and 30 miles from Brighton and Southampton. In every direction, the countryside could hardly be more English: green, rolling and understated, and the roads that connect it to all corners of the outside world consist of flowing bends and long straights.
Photo Charlotte Vowden
Two of the loveliest views can be found locally. The first, where Kennel Hill (a gentle tree-lined boulevard that runs beside the race course) meets Knights Hill, gives you a sense of how grand the Goodwood estate is. From the car park, it’s a two-minute walk to the top of St Roche’s Hill, otherwise known as the Trundle, where the remains of a Bronze Age hill fort reward a 360-degree view. It’s a popular spot for spectators without a ticket when the horse racing is on, and from here you’re able to look down onto the green tops of Charlton Forest (one of Europe’s largest beech plantations) and out towards Cocking: your next vista stop.
The 100-mile South Downs Way is usually tackled in a pair of sturdy walking boots rather than behind the wheel, but at the top of Cocking Hill, if you so desire, you can drive an absurdly short stretch (200m to be exact) that connects Flint Barn cafe with its car park. The chef here specialises in plant-based food, the vegan breakfast is bursting with flavour (griddled bean haggis, miso greens and smoked tofu in mushroom sauce) and with a bit of luck you’ll arrive in time for one of their popular flaky pastry ‘sausage’ rolls made with lentils and mushrooms.
If you’re making your way down from London, navigate towards Newlands Corner. Once there, take a walk: signposted trails lead you across the open chalk downland and through the woodlands, while views of the Surrey Hills and ridge of the South Downs are stupendous. Less than half an hour away, Godalming’s Hilltop kitchen is another vantage point where the seasonal menu created with an eat local ethos should be savoured as much as the surroundings – lamb with haricot beans, salsa verde and rainbow chard followed by a slice of homemade tart of the day, anyone?
Photo Charlotte Vowden
From Godalming, head south on the A3100 towards Milford and thence to the A283. Soon you’ll be passing the village of Chiddingfold and within a few miles, historic Petworth House. Now join the A285 and just south of the village of Duncton ready yourself for a fun, but brief, switchback ascent of the South Downs escarpment. Pause at Duncton viewpoint to admire the scenery, then, it’s onwards to Goodwood.
Half the fun is in the dressing up… where to shop for your Revival ensemble
Celebrating everything that was fabulous and stylish in the 1940s, 1950s and 1960s, you’ll feel out of place if you don’t embrace the unofficial dress code. If raiding your grandparents wardrobe isn’t an option, the vintage boutique RetroEsque in Arundel will provide all that you seek. From floral jumpsuits to velvet pencil dresses, petticoats and peep toe shoes, they even have gloves with sewn-in touch screen patches – heaven forbid you should miss a selfie opportunity.
Photo Goodwood
If you enjoy a good rummage and prefer to shop second hand, hunt for hidden gems at The Vintage Cellar by the seaside or Bygone Treasures in Worthing, the latter is a trove for accessories with an eccentric flavour – think big brooches, flying jackets and goggles. Brighton also has an abundance of charity shops and boutiques bursting with pre-loved items for men and women, while Chichester’s Squirrel Antiques specialises in pre-1950s costume jewellery.
This year sees the launch of Revival’s Car Boot Sale, so do save a little spending money for the main event. Insiders say that Annie Lennox and Livia Firth are donating items from their own wardrobes.
Photo Goodwood
Let someone else take care of dinner, darling: posh places to nosh
The prelude to a sophisticated supper is whiling away a few hours over a tray of fancies, but where to partake? Make it to the top of the tea stand for Eton mess and a shortbread biscuit at the Pavillion Tearoom , a beautifully restored Victorian glass house in Rowland’s Castle, or hearty homemade cakes at the Tea Barn on Durleighmarsh Farm in Durleighmarsh.
Tilly’s Tea Room in Midhurst serves traditional treats such as viennese whirls and Bakewell tarts with a bit of a twist, and Haslemere’s Red H bar, which co-exists within the town’s beautiful Edwardian Post Office, promises a ‘Not Your Average Afternoon Tea’ with freshly baked Stamper Beer infused scones.
The roads around Amberley Castle – which recently received a Tripadvisor Travellers’ Choice award – are quiet and undulating. Stay all night and begin with afternoon tea topped up with a gourmet meal in the Queen's Room Restaurant. Pubs that go above and beyond at dinner time include The Earl of March and The Crate and Apple, both in Chichester, as well as 250-year-old The Halfway Bridge Inn at Petworth. Bon appétit.
DIY luncheon? Oh, if we must: farm shops and picnic spots
Farm-to-picnic table feasts can be gathered easily when en route in this part of the country. With bountiful displays of local produce – including artisan cheeses, charcuterie, freshly baked bread, quiches, cakes and cookies – the Cowdray Estate Farm Shop in Midhurst is one of the best. Order ahead and they’ll prepare a picnic hamper for you (phew!), from £21 per person, but don’t be on your merry way without having a mooch. As stockists of truffles and tablets made by local chocolatiers Noble and Stace, there are some irresistible and indulgent little extras you'll want to pick up.
Photo Mariah Hewines / Unsplash
Three and a half miles along the road, Langham Brewery has a tap room and shop. After all, it’s sensible to try before you buy if you’re not the designated driver, but for a wider selection of beers and brews, the Crafty Pint Shop is ten minute away. Alternatively, source a bottle of plonk from Nutbourne Vineyard – they also offer tours, tastings and picnics if you ring ahead. Marvellous!
Too Goodwood to be true? Yes, Goodwood does have its own farm shop, with a small selection of drinks and edible goodies, but its biggest draw is the butchers counter. More suitable on the go foodie pit stops are Funtington Farm shop , Roundstone Farm and Boxgrove village stores.
In Graffham, the village shop sells freshly made sandwiches and nearby Graffham common nature reserve is a nice spot to lay down a picnic blanket. Other perfect al fresco dining rooms include Petworth Park, Kingley Vale, Stedham Commons, Queen Elizabeth Country Park, The Devil’s punch bowl and Black Down, the highest point in the South Downs.
Discover what West Sussex is all about: must-visit museums
As an attendee of the world’s leading historic car festival, a heritage tour of its homeland will appeal to your inner anorak. For an immersive experience (no costumes required) that takes you back many moons before the Revival, turn off at The Weald & Downland Living Museum . Also home to BBC’s The Repair Shop, if the Tudor cook is at home, savour the chance to try anything from hand-made butter to fried ‘chewits’, pastry filled with spinach, onion and other veg. The Tangmere Military and Aviation Museum, Amberley Museum and Bignor Roman Villa should also be on your itinerary.
A grand entrance … the photo op
Hold on to your fascinator! Enlisting someone to capture you whizzing through the Goodwood motor racing circuit tunnel is the perfect motorised momento – but it’s off limits during the festival. Even more reason to make an extended Revival road trip.
Photo Goodwood / YouTube
Words Charlotte Vowden Twitter | Instagram