Detour #119: Circuit of Skye, Scotland
The Old Man of Storr rises in the distance Photo Nik Berg
What the Isle of Skye lacks in size it makes up for in spectacle. You can lap the island in a day, but its visual and gastronomic delights will make you want to stay much longer, says Nik Berg.
Time was when the only way to cross to Skye was by ferry boat but now, like me, most travellers take the bridge from Kyle of Lochalsh on the Scottish mainland. The short hop across the Inner Sound is not the most dramatic entry to the Inner Hebrides, but is certainly the most expedient.
Skye Bridge Photo Daniel Svoboda / Unsplash
It’s a quick up and over, and I can’t see much beyond the barriers before I hit land again. Climbing up out of Kyelakin on the A87 the sea views are quickly lost behind dense woodland before just as quickly opening again to reveal the Sound and the islands of Pabay, Scalpay, Longay in the distance. As it parallels the coast the road is mostly straight, the views periodically interrupted by trees, gradually teasing me in with glimpses of mountains and lochs.
Soon the road cuts inland and a stop to admire the Eas a ‘Bhradain waterfall is called for, before winding north through moorland and mini mountains, watching the Isle of Rassay come into view and then running the length of Loch Sligachan. To Portree, the island’s capital, is a fairly straight shot through forest and moor.
It’s a pretty town with its pastel hued harbourside houses and plenty of restaurants serving up fresh seafood, but I have somewhere else in mind to sample the local produce and so I carry on north on the A855.
Storr surveys the view Photo Daniel Tonks / Unsplash
In the distance is the simply extraordinary Old Man of Storr. This spearhead rock formation is precariously balanced on a craggy overlook. How it formed – and how it’s still there – is beyond me. It is utterly otherworldly so no wonder Ridley Scott chose to film part of his Alien prequel Prometheus here.
On up the coast I go, passing waterfall after waterfall until I reach Digg and there’s the most dramatic topographical transformation once again. The Quiraing’s series of inland cliffs and lush green drumlins are the like of which I’ve only ever seen before in Iceland. Beautiful just doesn’t do it justice.
The Quiraing Photo Nik Berg
The route is steep, narrow, yet still somehow classed as an A-road, but it improves again as I head to towards the top of the island. Heading down the west coast the weather turns and my view to Stornoway is mired in mist. South I go, windscreen wipers at full speed and, subsequently, little to say about the journey south again.
At Borve I turn westwards, cross the Skeabost Bridge and keep heading to Dunvegan. Serious foodies should consider a detour north to the Michelin-starred Loch Bay restaurant, but my hunger pangs are to be sated further south at Carbost. As I’m driving I give the Talisker distillery a swerve and trundle up what’s little more than a sheep track to the Oyster Shed for the freshest, most delicious shellfish I’ve ever tasted.
Refueled, it’s back to the bridge and the mainland again. Next time I think I’ll take the ferry.
ROADBOOK
CLASS: Island Tour
NAME: Circuit of Skye
ROUTE: Skye Bridge to Skye Bridge
COUNTRY: Scotland
DISTANCE: 150 miles
Map does not reflect actual route taken.