Detour #124: Tirthan Valley, Himalayas, India
Photo Paranjay Dutt
Pardon the pun but the Himalayas represent the peak of driving fun in India, says Paranjay Dutt.
Despite the roads being some of the most dangerous in the country, the chill of the mountains and the sheer visual delight make the Himalayas hugely popular with Indian and foreign tourists alike.
The region has many unexplored areas to discover without the need to leave the relative security of tarmac. Tirthan Valley — a picturesque valley located right next to the UNESCO-recognised Great Himalayan National Park — is one such spot and a great choice as a road trip destination.
It takes about nine hours to cover 270 km (170 miles) from Chandigarh to reach Tirthan Valley. The route is generally well-paved throughout, although there can be surprises in the form of giant potholes and less-than-perfect tarmac. On the whole, the roads are decent, and the journey can be done even in a relatively low saloon or sports car, although one would need to tread with caution. The best bit about starting the trip from Chandigarh is the ascent begins soon, the roads twist and turn, and while still pretty much in the civilisation, it offers a sign of things to come.
Not too deep into the journey, somewhere around Bilaspur, I am treated to the sight of the snow-capped Himalayas. The slow-moving lorries in the hills can test patience, but otherwise, the NH154 to Mandi is relatively easy. Mandi is commercially active and hence proves to be the last spot for making all the non-essential purchases.
It is not until Pandoh Dam that the view transforms. Because from then on, the sense that one is in the hills just keeps getting stronger. Since it’s a valley, the air doesn’t get rarified enough to be a matter of concern for most, although it’s always a good idea to acclimatise oneself before trekking, indulging in any form of adventure sports, or heading out for the peaks — even if you’re planning to drive there. The locals understand the importance of travelling light, and that’s reflected in their mode of transport, too: most private cars seem to be the Indian version of the Suzuki Alto.
Photo Paranjay Dutt
Which is probably all the car one would need, as narrow roads and successive, tight corners keep a check on speed. That and the constant proximity to danger. Not that every corner is a disaster waiting to happen, but it’s the margin for error which is pretty thin here. While the majority of local and experienced motorists who use these roads regularly are well-versed in the art of driving here, new travellers do need a keep a check on their enthusiasm.
As I progress the roads continue to get narrower, the climate cooler, and it is clear that in a bid to get closer to nature, humans have encroached more than they probably should have.
But I digress! Just before the Aut tunnel, the road turns right for Tirthan Valley, crossing hamlets like Banjar. Tirthan Valley is beautiful beyond words; even though it's surrounded by the hills, the views from here are second to none. The river Tirthan flows through the valley, and there are many BnBs located right on the banks of the river. The locals are good-natured, always ready to help, and nothing like the money-hungry opportunists one might find in popular locations. On their recommendation, I try the trout-based delicacies, which mustn't be missed. Similarly unmissable is the view from Sharchi, which I would indeed have failed to see, had we not asked the locals.
Getting to Sharchi requires driving further uphill. If I had made the trip a little later in the year, I could have enjoyed fresh snow, but that would also mean blocked roads and fewer chances of enjoying the sight of ice-capped peaks without having to deal with low grip. A recent landslide means the road to Sharchi (pictured) has nearly no traffic. At most places, it’s not spacious enough to accommodate two vehicles side by side, which makes me wonder how exceptionally skilled the government bus driver would be!
But when I’m not negotiating tight turns or letting the oncoming traffic pass, Tirthan Valley brings the kind of calm other spots can't. The fact that it’s not inundated by tourists (even in pre-COVID times) makes the trip a touch better. For ASMR lovers, the river Tirthan tends to have what seems like a natural 24x7 music show, while those looking for inspiration for their next art project, the valley happily obliges with vistas fascinating.
And most importantly, the drive up there is immersive, regardless of your wheels of choice.
Words Paranjay Dutt Twitter
Photo Gurkirat Sidhu / Unsplash