Detour #146: The Mille Miglia, Italy
Take a lap of the most famous road race in the world with Odiel Mennink.
Crazy about classic cars, Italian landscapes and Italian pasta? Then the route of the epic Mille Miglia is a real must. Held every Spring, it’s simply the most famous classic car rally in Europe. The route runs from Brescia to Rome and back again covering no less than 1000 Roman miles, driving mountain passes and conquering hairpin bends. This major race-event is famous for enjoying classic beauties, but if you don’t happen to have a motor driven by Moss & Jenks you can still drive the route yourself, with your own car or a rental, of course.
The story of the Mille Miglia race begins with Aymo Maggi, Franco Mazzotti and Renzo Castagneto, three gentlemen from Brescia, Italy. They didn't like the fact that Monza, a new circuit near Milan, was stealing all the attention from their race, the Gran Premio di Brescia, in 1923. So they organised an epic new race. A road race from Brescia to Rome and back – a total of 1,000 miles. In 1927, the first Coppa delle Mille Miglia took place, and, afterwards, Benito Mussolini sent a telegram with only the word 'Continua! ('Continue!'). After several major accidents, it was decided not to run the Mille Miglia race after 1957. Fortunately, it was revived again in 1982 as a classic tour and has taken place annually ever since.
Entry is by invitation only, and your car must have been eligible for the original Mille Miglia from1927-1957. The official race lasts four days, but if you’re not competing then take a few more days to enjoy your road trip to the fullest. Every year, the route is slightly different and is divided in four stages. Here’s what they have in store for 2022.
Stage one
From Brescia you will head towards Lake Garda, first Salò then Desenzano del Garda and Sirmione, but do take some time to explore this classical town. Visit the Tempio Capitolino, the Teatro Romano or take a look at the Duomo Vecchio. If you are looking for a quieter place, then a visit to the Museo Mille Miglia, just outside the city, is highly recommended. In this museum, the history of the race really comes to life.
Once back on the route, you will also pass Mantua . Since 2007, the old city centre has been listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. The historic town with 50,000 inhabitants is surrounded by lakes like a fortress. The end station of stage one is the coastal town Cervia / Milano Marittima.
Stage two
From Cervia you head for Rome. You drive via a winding route through the beautiful province of Marche towards the capital of Italy. You pass the tiny state of San Marino, a small independent Republic in the middle of the Emilia-Romagna region. Admire the changing of the guards at the Palazzo Pubblico or climb to the towers on Monte Titano and get a stamp for your passport (for a small fee). The route continues with a stopover in the village of Passignano Sul Trasimeno. This quiet and typical Italian village is situated at the beautiful Lake Trasimeno in Umbria.
The town of Norcia is the last stop of stage two. A peaceful town in the south-east of Umbria. This place is world famous for being the birthplace of Saint Benedict. Taste the ham, black truffle, cheese, wild boar sausage and other local delicacies that the town has to offer. On the way to Rome you pass the 168m high Marmore waterfalls and around the 2200m high Monte Terminillo to reach Rome via the old Via Flaminia.
The stage ends in Rome, the Eternal City, where an eternity is not enough to see all the beauty. Participants in the Mille Miglia stay only one night, I would spend several more, if I was you.
Stage three
This is the longest stage of the race, after departing from Rome. You will first drive towards Ronciglione, then Siena from where they will travel towards Viareggio via Pontedera to reach Parma at the end of the third day. A visit to Siena should not be missed when you are on a road trip in Italy. It is one of the most photogenic Italian cities on the route of the Mille Miglia. A beautiful, old city that feels more like a village. It is cosy because of all the narrow streets full of orange-coloured houses and typical Italian restaurants. The city is known for the square 'Piazza del Campo' which is the heart of Siena.
On the route towards Parma, you pass Pontedera, a harmonious town located in the Terre di Pisa area. Pontedera is connected to the Vespa, an international symbol of Made in Italy. Even today, in many international films it symbolises the Italian Dolcevita.
Two hundred kilometres up north you have reached the final destination of the third part of the route: Parma. The city is known for two things we cannot get enough of: prosciutto di Parma and Parmigiano-Reggiano. But of course, there is much more to do here than just eat. With its cobbled streets, colourful buildings and historic architecture, Parma is very charming to stroll through.
Stage four
The official Mille Miglia route of 2022 takes you on the final stage from Parma, towards Pavia, Monza, Bergamo, with Brescia as the final destination. An unforgettable and exciting trip through Northern Italy.
Pavia is a remarkable stop on the route. It is an ancient town in Lombardy that is over 2,000 years old, located not far from Milan and evokes fairy tales, especially that of Rapunzel. There are numerous mediaeval towers that reach up to the sky and look down on modern buildings.
Another highlight of the route is the Autodromo Nazionale di Monza. One of the oldest circuits in F1. Every inch of asphalt breathes history, every curve has a story to tell. Since 1922 the notorious bowl track of Monza has been raced, and since the beginning of F1 (1950) the Italian Grand Prix has been on the calendar.
Less than an hour's drive to your final destination, you pass your very last stop: Bergamo. A mediaeval city hidden between mountains and valleys. Bergamo is the heart of Lombardy, a city full of contrasts that you have to discover for yourself. Via shortcuts you arrive at Brescia some 50 kilometres further on. The 1,000 miles are over.
The 40th edition of this famous Italian race takes place from 15 to 18 June. Find out more.
Words Odiel Mennink Instagram | Facebook | Twitter
Photography Jaguar Heritage / Bentley / JD Classics / Alfa Romeo / BMW