Detour #147: In search of susegad from Mumbai to Goa, India
Photo Abdullah Amad / Unsplash
Escaping the urban sprawl of Mumbai to the beaches of Goa, Paranjay Dutt discovers susegad and a fellow petrolhead.
Two syllables and the feeling of getting away from a hectic city life. That’s Goa for many of us, especially since from Mumbai (where I live), it’s just a ten hour drive. It’s also a great way to experience susegad, a Portuguese-derived term used to refer to the Goan lifestyle, where peace and contentment take precedence over chasing ridiculous worldly goals. It doesn’t mean being lazy by any means, but rather how one must relish the joys of life away from the rat race. Or at least that’s what I’ve understood.
Goa presents a variety of entry points for those coming from Mumbai, essentially a variety of twisties depending on where you want to reach: north or south. The coastal route is newly laid and is said to be scenic too, but for those who don’t mind some less-scenic but quicker motorway cruising, the Mumbai - Kolhapur - Nipani - Goa highway makes a lot more sense. This might seem a little contradictory considering I was getting all philosophical about following susegad and now it’s the shorter way being chosen for the trip, but the familiarity of the National Highway 48 does get my vote. Having said that, if you’re interested in beach hopping and tasting some local Konkani cuisine, it’s imperative that you take the coastal route all the way.
But the other (and more important here) reason why I took the motorway route is that when the multi-lane highway ends, the ghats begin. The Amboli Ghat takes you through the nearby Sawantwadi village straight to the northern part of Goa. The road from here is wide enough for two cars to pass but it’s not the smoothest and coming to a standstill in order to cross potholes isn’t uncommon. The scenery though keeps getting prettier and prettier: from the wide, never-ending expanse of Karnataka, the mountain roads surrounded by greenery in Maharashtra, to the coastal beauty that is Goa. Driving through the ghats is a pleasure, especially if you’re in something that’s not too wide or powerful, as you can smoothly power through most corners, practising some heel and toe without risking too much.
Photo Paranjay Dutt
The Portuguese might’ve ceased control of Goa ages ago, but the influence is unlikely to go away ever. It’s all the more evident in locales like Fontainhas where the architecture is complemented by the food, especially the aromatic and delectable bliss that is Poi, a local Goan bread, which, like Goa, brings out the best of two cultures. Pair a steamy Poi with a local coconut-based curry and it’s bound to surprise how well it works instead of a regular chapati or naan bread. Or slice it and make a butty, and it’s equally good.
While tourists, of whom hordes can be seen on popular beaches like Baga, Anjuna, and Vagator, prefer the more ‘hip’ spots, one can easily avoid the crowd such is the vastness of Goa. We found our haven in a beach resort called Elsewhere.
Photo Aniruddh Kaushal
Owned and run by Denzil Sequeira, Elsewhere presents the opportunity to let go of the urge to tick every box on the checklist, to take in the goodness of Goa without running into a barrage of beachgoers all waiting to take a selfie before the sun goes down, or witness the waves pirouette as they hit the clean sands of the Ashvem beach. If this is a part of susegad, then I’d like a lifetime membership of it, please.
As it happens Sequeira is a passionate car lover with lots to talk about from how his grandpa drove a Jaguar SS from Mumbai to Goa in the early 20th century to tales about his current classic, a MkIV Triumph Spitfire.
And you know what makes these discussions even better? Goan curry with poi, of course!
Words Paranjay Dutt Twitter
