Detour #150: Champagne!
Did you know there are approximately 49 million bubbles in a standard sized bottle of Champagne? Should you wish to sample some straight from the source, then Odiel Mennink knows just where to go.
The northernmost wine region of France, Champagne, is only about three hours by car from Calais. To get into the mood, download some French chansons and play them as you road trip along endless vineyards, mediaeval towns and rolling countryside.
Champagne is sparkling wine, but only sparkling wine made in the Champagne region of France can be called Champagne. The original posh plonk was even Napoleon's favourite. Before starting a battle, he would stock up on a few bottles of Champagne, in case he had another victory to celebrate. For Detourists the Route Touristique du Champagne gives you plenty of opportunities to bag a few bottles, along with some cracking roads along the way.
Montagne de Reims
If you start in Reims, you'll come across many small champagne houses on the way, but once you arrive in Epernay, it's a Valhalla of large champagne houses. In the street 'Avenue de Champagne' in Epernay you will find the world famous champagne brands Moët & Chandon and Perrier-Jouët, founded in 1743 by Claude Moët. The name Chandon came later in 1832, when his son-in-law entered the business. Another great wine house in Epernay is Mercier where an electric train takes you through the cellars of the house. Once back upstairs, it is wise to drive up to the beautiful Parc Naturel Régional de la Montagne de Reims to get some fresh air in. The ideal place for a relaxing stroll to walk off the champagne.
Côte des Blancs
Between Épernay and Sézanne you drive through villages with famous champagne names such as Pierre Pinard and Jean Milan et Fils. The route is not long, about 20km (12.5 miles), and includes 3,313 hectares of vineyards, 90 per cent of which are planted with the Chardonnay grape. The Chardonnay gives the champagnes 'elegance, lightness and refinement', according to the French. The grapes of the Côte des Blancs are grown on the vineyards of the champagne houses themselves or sold by farmers to the same houses.
Côte des Bar
The Aube region is a little less well-trodden. This route - a bit south of Epernay - takes you through no less than 30 idyllic villages with numerous hidden gems and lesser-known champagne houses. And in the village of Essoyes, you will also pass by painter Renoir's studio, which is absolutely worth a visit. The Côte des Bar route leads you further along green vineyards and valleys with mediaeval villages in between, like Troyes. The old town of Troyes is picturesque with narrow alleys, restored half-timbered houses and cosy streets. Well worth a short break. From Troyes, drive towards Les Riceys, a wine village in the Aube region where time has stood still. It is also the only village in the Champagne region with three 'protected' champagnes: dé Champagne, rosé des Riceys and Coteaux-champenois.
Massif de Saint Thierry
West of the city of Reims is a route that takes you along many vineyards and forests. Start the route in the city of Reims itself, where many champagne houses are represented. The Champagne route Massif de Saint Thierry takes you along four champagne houses. Start at champagne house Pommery and then drive on to Taittinger, Francis Boulard et Fille and finish at the 18th century wine house Ariston Père et Fils.
The best time to visit the Champagne region is from May onwards when the grapes are in full bloom. Early August is the holiday period for the French themselves, and many wineries and hotels are closed. So plan your road trip through the Champagne region in spring, when everything is in bloom, or in autumn, during the harvest. And if you want to experience the harvest festivals, keep an eye on the calendar of the Champagne region in September and October.