Detour #164: The Julier Pass is a jewel of the Swiss Alps
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As you hustle through the hairpins of the Julier Pass, spare a thought for the snowplough drivers who have to manhandle their machines from switchback to switchback to keep the road open 365 days a year.
Unlike several of Switzerland’s most amazing mountain roads the Julier Pass never closes (well, very rarely). It’s a permalink between Albula/Alvra and Silvaplana and on to the swish resort of St Moritz. Traversed by travellers since Roman times, a proper path was first built in the 1820s and fully asphalted a century later to make it more suitable for the increasingly popular motor car.
In winter months the route is a monochrome meander through the mountains, in the summer a sea of lush green pastures and slopes topped with ever-present ice caps.
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Whenever you choose to journey, the Julier Pass is a joy. The Swiss don’t just keep the road clear of snow, they maintain the surface with pride so it is a delight to drive or ride.
Follow Route 3 south from Albula/Alvra and it’s a gentle build up, with easy curves taking you to Mulegns and the beginning of the pass proper. As you approach Lai de Marmorera the turns become tighter as the climb gets steeper. There’s a perfect parking spot with a view of the lake’s crystal waters and a restaurant if you’re feeling peckish.
Keep climbing and you’ll soon reach the small resort of Bivio, but you’re not done yet as a quickfire sequence of bends delivers you to the Julier’s 2,284m summit. You can stop for a coffee or even stay the night at the rustic Ristorante Ospizio La Veduta or take in a play at the Julier Theatre - surely one of the highest in the world.
The run down to Silvaplana is plain sailing apart from a couple of twisties just before you enter the town. If you’re going on to St Moritz for a bash at bobsled or snow polo then follow the 27 and you’ll be there in snow time at all, no matter the season.
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