Detour #165: Have a whale of a time on Clarence Drive, South Africa
Our man in the Cape, Sudhir ‘Banzai’ Matai takes us along, what could be, the finest coastal drive in the world.
You’ve seen this road before, I guarantee you have. It has featured in countless carmaker’s press images and played the backdrop in many movies, either doubling for an exotic European locale or the California coastline. This scenic coastal road, known to locals as Clarence Drive, is just a small part of the R44, and the start of the Whale Route.
Leaving Cape Town you have two options to access the Whale Route. You can head out on the national road (N2), which takes you over Sir Lowry’s Pass. However, if you turn right after the town of Strand, just before the pass, you will find Clarence Drive. This stretch runs from the N2 on the one end to Kleinmond, about 50 km away, But it’s the bit between Gordon’s Bay and Rooi Els that I enjoy the most.
This immaculate piece of tar is flanked by the towering Hottentots Holland mountains on one side and the cool Atlantic Ocean on the other. Close to Gordon’s Bay you can slip left and head up the Steenbras Dam access road and from this elevated vantage point enjoy panoramic views of the harbour town to the right. Anywhere along Clarence Drive lets you cast your eye over False Bay, so named because sailors mistook it for Table Bay, which is ‘just around the corner’. On a clear day you can see Cape Point in the distance.
The entire pass sits within the Kogelberg Biosphere. In season you can see Southern Right whales returning with their young calves, less frequent visitors are humpbacks and orcas. However, great white sharks are an ever-present danger especially if you plan to take advantage of the excellent surfing in the area or snorkel for crayfish.
There are myriad view points to pause your journey and enjoy the unbroken vista. In recent times food trucks have started to set up shop in the larger lay-bys. They serve hot coffee and snacks to those who have taken a break from the continuously winding road. There’s even the option of authentic Alpine cuisine for German travellers. If you want a longer break you can have a braai at the white sand beach of Koel Bay or tuck in at the Grille Shack restaurant. There are even hiking trails for the outdoorsy types.
Clarence Drive is a driver’s and rider’s delight. The corners come at you relentlessly. Whether it’s a hot hatch or a GT3, the drive through here is always entertaining. However, there are few places to pass safely, which means your pace could well be determined by tourists in the cheapest (read: slowest) rental shooting a vlog on an iPhone. If you plan to enjoy a ‘spirited’ drive you may want to be there at first light, just mind the cyclists.
I usually stop at Rooi Els for a coffee and a sandwich when I am not heading further up the coast for a weekend away. Time the traffic just right and you can return with an uninterrupted run for several kilometres.
Words and Photography: Sudhir “Banzai” Matai Twitter | Instagram