Reach the top of the Wrynose Pass and you’ll find yourself at the intersection of three counties of old England.

Three Shire Stone marks the point where Cumberland, Lancashire and Westmorland meet.

It’s a route steeped in history dating back to an ancient Roman road to the Hardknott Fort and it’s never been as easy passage. The name Wrynose means “Pass of the stallion” and came about because you’d need some serious horsepower to climb its slopes, which reach one in three.

Even today with internal combustion or electric power it takes a deft use of the horses to negotiate the pass. It’s narrow, with broken and occasionally loose surface that can leave your wheels scrabbling for grip.

From the 17th Century Grade II listed National Trust-owned Fell Foot Farm to Cockley Beck is less than four miles along this scenic single-track road. Dry stone walls provide an unforgiving barrier on one side and the majestic landscape to the other hasn’t move in millennia either.

Expect it to be slow going, with walkers and wildlife requiring plenty of caution, while the road is scarred by the winter freeze and plenty of random wheel-swallowing potholes. The initial climb is steep, with blind crests, whoops and drops galore.

Then, all of a sudden you’re out into a more open landscape where it’s easy to be distracted by the craggy beauty which only gets more and more impressive as you reach greater heights. It’s never more than one car wide, with passing places positioned frequently - although some are perilously close to the edge and an untimely end to your journey.

Stop at the Three Shires Stone before making the descent, where the road surface and visibility are both better, meaning it’s possible to travel more rapidly than the near-walking pace of the first section.

When you’re back in the bottom of the valley you have a choice. Turn around to try it in reverse or head onwards to the Hardknott Pass and more elevated excitement on its even steeper slopes.

Words & Photography Nik Berg Twitter/X | Instagram