Detour #87: Tblisi to Batumi, Georgia
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Don’t let the giant potholes and self-taught drivers put you off. A road trip across Georgia can be a breathtaking adventure of unspoilt scenery and welcoming locals, says Zoe Whittaker.
Georgia is rich in culture and astonishingly diverse with gorgeous landscapes that wouldn’t be out of place in a David Attenborough documentary. But you may feel that you are also part of some strange fly-on-the-wall experience as you encounter the country’s drivers.
The Caucasian mountain roads are steep and meandering, an intense experience, heightened because the Georgians tend to drive on whichever side of the road is not in the sun. Expect to be overtaken on blind bends or into oncoming traffic by a driver who has simply bought a licence, rather than taken a test.
Road conditions can be quite daunting and even walking the streets of Tbilisi you have to watch your step. Potholes the size of a paddling pool are not uncommon. Many roads are crumbling away with cratered, jagged and rutted surfaces. Blame low quality tarmac and heavy lorries driving the roads daily, bringing produce to and from Turkey.
During Soviet times the road network was neglected and even 25 years after the dissolution of the Soviet Union, there is still a lot that needs to be done and funds are limited. That said, I have driven around Georgia several times in pre-war classic cars and survived. Despite what the travel guides may say, you don’t need a 4x4 to explore the country.
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Leaving Tblisi behind, the roadsides are littered with bee hives and locals selling fresh produce or homemade cheeses and bread. Georgian food is like nothing else you’ll ever taste. Everything is organic and from the land and packed full of flavour. It’s honest comfort food, which is always accompanied by local orange wine. Great road trip fodder.
On distant hillsides, you can see shepherds guiding their vast herds of sheep between summer and winter pastures on an ancient transhumance route which crosses the country. A large majority of the drive has a river running along the roadside providing fresh water to the many ancient vineyards.
The route from Patara Sameba to Vardzia, descends down a long winding road with dramatic mountains on either side. If you look carefully you will see a host of caves in the mountain face.
You then arrive at Vardzia, a spectacular cave city with its inhabitants living in rock-hewn dwellings ranging over 13 floors, a scale almost impossible to imagine in the 12th century. Altogether there are over 400 rooms, 13 churches and 25 wine cellars, with many more still being discovered today. Stop and explore the 12th century monastery if you can.
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Whichever time of the year you go, the scenery is stunning. In the summer the fields are littered with 12th century vineyards and qvevris, huge terracotta pots used to ferment the grapes. Georgia takes great pride in its distinction as the birthplace of wine. The fields are also filled with colourful wildflowers and in the autumn the leaves on the trees turn a glorious golden colour, giving New England a run for its money.
Although the major cities of Tblisi and Batumi, our coastal destination, are developed and modern, much of Georgia is still very third world and people literally live off the land.
During my trip we stopped at the roadside in the most remote place we had driven through when one of the classic cars ran out of water due to a holed radiator. There was nothing but what seemed like a few derelict and abandoned houses and farms around, but to our surprise several villagers suddenly appeared to offer their assistance. Despite the language barrier we managed to communicate our problem and a little old lady rushed out of her home carrying two jugs of water. She then went back into her home and came back bearing gifts of fresh bread and homemade cheese wrapped neatly in cloth. It seemed like the only food she had but she was adamant we were not leaving without her offering, which we graciously accepted.
A few hours later we stopped by the roadside and picnicked by the river with wildflowers everywhere. It was a perfect way to reflect on the journey and remind us of the incredible humbleness and hospitably we encountered throughout our time in Georgia.
Words Zoe Whittaker
Photography Zoe Whittaker, Artem Bryzgalov & Shutterstock
