Detour Pit Stop #71: The Grand Exotic, KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa
The Grand Exotic is a bizarre and beautiful jewel on the KwaZulu-Natal North Coast. Sudhir Matai sticks some flowers in his hair to explore.
The KZN North Coast is known for one thing: sugar cane, miles and miles of the closely packed crop. But among the greenery is a hidden gem of a place called The Grand Exotic.
We headed north from Durban one sunny summer day and followed the directions as doled out by nav-lady, but once off the N2 (national) motorway, we needed no further guidance. The large turquoise dome with a spire, which used to be a drill bit (believe it or not) is conspicuous.
Entering the car park makes us feel as though we’ve been transported straight into the opening sequence of a Wes Anderson movie. We’re greeted by a balletic dancer perched in a flower garden, pink walls, palms trees and a pair of vintage cars in pretty decent nick.
A sign near the door outlines the rules: Welcome to adult time! Regret no children. Badly behaved adults must play outside. No swinging from the crystal chandeliers. No pinching of bottoms. Animals on leads are welcome but no pooping. Okay then…
Stepping through the doors I half expect to be greeted by a bell-hop, instead we are treated to a Paris cafe soundtrack. The Grand Exotic is a multi-part establishment. Centre stage is the Grand Cafe, which is flanked by a wedding venue and an antique store. There’s also a day spa on the premises for a bit of pampering, presumably only for the well behaved.
Natural light floods the dining area through painted art deco windows below the dome, and I spot the chandelier that I am not allowed to swing from… bummer, it looks like fun. The walls inside are bedecked with an eclectic mix of paraphernalia obtained by the owner over her many trips abroad, mostly to India.
The Eastern influence is clearly evident throughout the restaurant. From colourful patterns on the tables, to the foliage, flowing pants worn by the waitrons made from repurposed saris and artwork as well as signage, all bear a nod to the sub-continent.
A door at the back of the restaurant leads onto an open verandah looking out over a courtyard garden with a water feature. Diners can order single origin coffee or tea, which is served from silver teapots. Meals are served on vintage porcelain plates, the kind your grandma used to own but have long been thrown out. Not to despair, if you like the style expressed by the crockery then the antique shop has just about everything on sale.
The main menu offers simple, light fare. I opted for the Thai chicken stack, a special on the day, which was delicious especially with a dollop of the in-house chilli sauce. I washed it down with a cold coffee as it was sweltering outside. No one had space for dessert, though there were some tempting options on the menu.
Exploring the establishment to digest, I wander through another set of ornate doors that seems as though they should be on a church in the 1690s. I listen carefully, hmmmmm, still no Wes Anderson-esque narration, I am disappointed. The walls leading to the venue are covered with black and white photos of celebs (I think). A couch is now housed within the front end of a classic car, replete with headlamps and metal bumper.
After overstaying our welcome a touch, we head out to enjoy the gardens. Here we encounter selfie-taking guests. We suspect a lot of that goes on here. The Grand Exotic provides an excellent back-drop and soon enough, it won’t be a hidden jewel.
Words and Photography Sudhir “Banzai” Matai Twitter | Instagram