Detour #342: Following Clarkson, Hammond and May on the Skeleton Coast, Namibia
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It may not be quite as death-defying as the Grand Tour made it look, but a drive up the Skeleton Coast is definitely life-affirming.
In one of the most hair-raising scenes of their Namibia Special Jeremy Clarkson, Richard Hammond and James May almost drowned in their beach buggies as they were caught between impenetrable sand dunes and the fast-rising tide. In typical Grand Tour style the trio took the most treacherous route as they headed up the Skeleton Coast, but this extraordinary drive betwixt sea and sand really isn’t that dangerous, despite the name.
It was author John Henry Marsh who first came up with the moniker for his novel based on the beaching of the ocean liner Dunedin Star, and the rescue effort that followed. This stretch of coastline has certainly seen its share of shipwrecks, caused in no small part by the dense fog that often hangs were land and sea meet.
The journey begins in Swakopmund, a town seemingly parachuted into position, not just from another continent, but from another time. Namibia was a German colony and it was here that the colonists made themselves most at home. The architecture is an almost fairytale-like reproduction of pre-war Germany and a stark contrast to the surrounding desert landscape.
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The C34 follows the coastline almost due north for over 200 miles. Initially paved, the surface soon gives way to gravel. It’s a well-travelled route and, unless you plan to take a detour to the water’s edge then you won’t need a 4x4 (or beach buggy).
It is staggeringly straight which can tax the concentration, especially as it’s easy to be distracted by the ruins of old infrastructure, and the endless ocean views (fog permitting). Life on the Skeleton Coast is surprisingly prosperous despite the harsh landscape. You can expect to find flamingos, springbok, jackals and hyenas along the way, with seals basking on the beaches.
At Mile 108 you can stop for fuel and provisions, then a couple of hours in you’ll reach Ugab Gate where you’ll need to obtain a transit permit to enter the Skeleton Coast National Park. It’s free, but the gate is open only between 7.30am and 3pm. Arrive later and you’ll be turned away.
Terrace Bay is the end of the road for the general public and you’ll have to obtain an overnight pass and an advance booking if you want to stay. To go any further the only option is an organised tour. So that just leaves the return journey and a second chance to enjoy the spectacular sights of the Skeleton Coast.
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ROADBOOK
CLASS: Coast Road
NAME: Skeleton Coast Freeway
ROUTE: Swakopmund to terrace Bay
COUNTRY: Namibia
Distance: 220 Miles
Germany’s highest panoramic road has views and bends to die for.