Detour #80: New Caledonia
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New Caledonia is a little slice of France that’s closer to Australia than the motherland. Explore this tropical paradise by car and you’ll encounter lush forests, turtle beaches and, er, boulangeries.
Nouméa, the capital of this ‘special collectivity’ of France is the place to start and finish where you’ll find it a modern city with its colonial past still proudly on display. Visit the Musee de la Ville and you’ll see the French tricolor flying alongside the Kanak flag of the original inhabitants. It’s a cosmopolitan town where indigenous, French and Asian cultures all mix.
Despite voting to remain a part of France as recently as 2020 the New Caledonians haven’t adopted the Euro, so you’ll need to get some local Francs when you hire a car for your adventure. The roads the circumnavigate the main island (New Caledonia is an archipelago) are good, but if you want to venture inland, then you might want a 4x4.
After taking in the town, exploring the markets and trying one of 140 restaurants and cafes, you’ll take the RT1 north, following the east coast towards Bourail. Take in the restored Fort Teremba and enjoy a good look at the lagoon which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Stretch your legs on one of the beautiful walks to the hidden Baie de Amoreux or Baie de Tortues where, you may catch site of a sea turtle or two if you’re lucky.
You continue to track the coast, huge cliffs plunging into the surf below as you continue north to Koné. It’s a good place to break your journey with a choice of hotels.
Start your next day with fresh-baked croissants and keep going north, passing more stunning beaches at Nehoue Bay, and the western plains. Carry on to Poingam on the RPN1, the tip of the island and then you’ll head back down the east coast on RPN3. There are two steep climbs along the way, Col d’Amos and Col de Creve-Coeur with plenty of twists and turns to keep you entertained.
A barge will take you across the Ouaieme river on your way down to Hienghene where you may well wish to take in a bush walk or venture into the ocean for a snorkel, before carrying on to Poindimié. Again, a good place to spend the night where you can witness the contrast of the blue lagoon against the backdrop of Mount Panié, the highest peak in New Caledonia.
Back on the road you’ll wind along the coast once more before heading inland on RP5 to Sarramá, passing through traditional villages before the final leg back to the capital, Nouméa.
