Detour Pit Stop #93: Slab City, California, USA

Nothing can prepare you for the first sight of Slab City, a lawless society situated deep in the Sonoran desert.

From Joshua Tree we had driven for two hours alongside the Salton Sea and, passing several old army check points, now beautifully decorated by local artists, entered a completely deserted street. Lined on either side by colourful trailers, piles of rubbish, and huge metal sculptures, all the residents initially appeared to be sheltering from the harsh midday sun.

In 1956, the US Marine Corp abandoned Fort Dunlap, dismantling the buildings but leaving the concrete slabs behind and Slab City became a haven for those not fitting into traditional society. In the cooler winter months it swells to around 4,000 residents, otherwise known as ‘snowbirds’.

We had been warned the people living there might not take kindly to visitors, many of them felons on the run from the authorities, but everyone we eventually spoke to seemed interesting and friendly. It’s a good idea to pop a donation into one of the decorated boxes situated on the road side, or purchase one of the artisan items for sale (in our case some rocks painted with the words ‘Slab City’ in red), then taking photos is not an issue.

There are some signs of structured society here, from the Temple of Enlightenment to The Ranch — an open-air bar and concert area, where people gather to socialise and perform each Saturday night. The residents live totally off grid as there is no electricity, water, or sewage disposal, and police the city themselves — occasionally doling out their own forms of justice if someone steps out of line.

Don’t expect to stay overnight or even find a spot to eat, Slab City is definitely just a place to visit for a few hours, unless you are more adventurous than us and fancy sleeping in one of the abandoned trailers.

The most spectacular part of Slab City is an area called East Jesus, resembling a desert version of the Mutoid Waste Company, full of abandoned airplanes, cars, and vans, all wildly decorated with any available junk.

As we departed the main encampment we spotted Salvation Mountain, the work of one artist, Leonard Knight, who made it his life’s work to paint religious phrases and symbols in bright colours on the side of a small mountain. It would have been worth the long drive for this sight alone.

Words & Photography Susanna Walker

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ROADBOOK

CLASS: Nomadland

NAME: Slab City

ROUTE: California 92233

COUNTRY: USA

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