Detour #289: A Return to the Panorama Route, South Africa
Sudhir “Banzai” Matai retraces a route last seen from the back seat of his dad’s old Mercedes-Benz 230E.
Kruger Park is well known as one of South Africa’s premier tourist destinations. Most visitors fly straight into the world-famous game park, but to do so would be to miss a truly remarkable road trip.
Visiting Kruger Park from Johannesburg requires one to head north-east. The road from the Highveld plunges into the neighbouring province of Mpumalanga, with its verdant landscape and seemingly endless fruit orchards.
I recall the first time I travelled this path. It was part of a year-end school holiday break. Our family piled into my dad’s pride and joy, a Mercedes-Benz 230E. Heavily laden, we made an overnight stop in Johannesburg before heading into what used to be called the Eastern Transvaal. I remember the vistas through the massive windows of the ivory-coloured sedan, fighting with my brother and the delicious sandwiches my mum packed. Many of those memories came flooding back decades later as I made the trip with my wife.
The Panorama Route technically begins in Nelspruit, but this ever-expanding city isn’t where the natural delights are. For that you have to head further north to the town of Graskop. In this sleepy little hollow you can take an elevator into the gorge 50 metres below and walk in a valley rich in wildlife.
Once done exploring this Jurassic Park-like setting you can head just a few kilometres up the road to the breathtaking God’s Window – named for the panoramic view of the Lowveld more than 900 metres below. The plateau is expansive and, supposedly, on a crisp clear day you can see all the way into Mozambique...
God's Window is just a small part of a 250-km long escarpment of sheer cliffs. As a result there are also a myriad waterfalls in the vicinity. At over 90 metres, Lisbon Falls is the most awe-inspiring, and the highest in the province. Other notable plunging water features include the beautiful Mac Mac falls. One can view the entirety of the, 70-metre drop from a viewing platform. Berlin Falls drops 45-metres into a large, inviting pool below. Sabie and Bridal Veil falls are also worth a stop.
Bourke’s Luck Potholes is one of the most fascinating geological formations in the area, quite possibly the world. The confluence of the Treur and Blyde (happy) rivers have formed this incredible natural phenomenon over millennia. Whirlpools have swirled away at the rock faces leaving cylindrical potholes in the bedrock.
Heading north from this memorable sight takes you along the Blyde River Canyon. At 26 km long it is among the largest of its kind in the world. The heavily forested canyon is teeming with wildlife. Among the creatures are countless types of deer/antelope, crocodiles, hippo, not to mention just about every type of primate found in South Africa.
The elevated views from the roadside also let you see the Three Rondavels, a natural rock formation that resembles three African-style houses. One of the last highlights of the road into Kruger is the Abel Erasmus Pass that plunges into the valley below. The winding road brings with it great views of the ochre-coloured rock formations before heading through the 130-metre JG Strijdom tunnel.
From there it’s a short blast through rural Mpumalanga and over the border into neighbouring Limpopo. Hoedspruit Airport is the preferred entry point for many tourists heading for Kruger Park. But to fly and not drive is to be robbed of one of one the most memorable routes in South Africa - whether you’re in the front seat or the back.
ROADBOOK
CLASS: Scenic Drive
NAME: Panorama Route
ROUTE: Mbombela to Orpen Gate, Kruger National Park
COUNTRY: South Africa
Distance: 192 Miles
Sudhir “Banzai” Matai retraces a route last seen from the back seat of his dad’s old Mercedes-Benz 230E.