Detour #263: Off the Beaten Track in Baviaanskloof, South Africa

SUDHIR MATAI GOES WILD IN the Valley of the Baboons WITH THE HELP OF AN INEOS GRENADIER QUARTERMaster.

The Baviaanskloof, Afrikaans for valley of the baboons, is an unspoilt wilderness of grasslands, gorges and rugged mountain passes. It’s isolated from any major population centre and largely untouched by man.

The Baviaans, as locals call it, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with over 1,700 species of flora, 48 mammal species and nearly 300 of the feathery variety. Highlights include Cape mountain zebra, red hartebeest, kudu, grey rhebuck and two of the Big Five: buffalo and leopard. Only a tiny percentage of the park is accessible, leaving plenty of space for wildlife to roam unbothered. The most frequently seen are, of course, baboons that are spotted road-side but usually scatter at the sight of a vehicle.

The nature reserve is found on the western edge of the Eastern Cape province, accessed in the west from the town of Willowmore and my chosen entry point on the east from the village of Patensie. One can only traverse the park with a proper 4x4. In this case it’s from behind the wheel of the recently launched Ineos Grenadier Quartermaster pick-up.

There are many passes within the green corridor. The monster of these, Combrinck's Pass, is just 5.5km but descends 330 metres into the lowest part of the valley and consists of around 70 challenging corners. Each pass brings with it changing vistas of vegetation, plateaus, rivers and mountain scapes. Temperatures from top to bottom can also fluctuate quite markedly.

Travelling through the kloof, or valley, is a slow process. The tricky conditions and scenic views mean that one needs plenty of time to explore. Not to mention that the tracks are only wide enough to accommodate a single vehicle in all but a few spots. There are five campsites for those who fancy a night under the stars. Outdoor activities, with caution, include hiking, mountain biking and swimming in the various pools and rivers.

The route is treacherous in most places and only proper 4x4s should attempt it. One can hardly take your eyes off the road for the sheer drop-offs and rocky, undulating terrain. The tracks are only wide enough to accommodate a single vehicle in all but a few spots. At the same time it is hard not to marvel at the natural beauty all around. From the wildlife to the indigenous vegetation it is a treat for the senses. It’s just as well that speeds seldom rise over 15 mph in all but the flat, open sections in the valley.

Drive from end-to-end and you are greeted by any number of weird and wonderfully named natural formations. Among them are the Seven Dwarves, Raaskrans (noisy cliff) and Baviaanskloofsleutel (key). It’s said that when the latter rock falls from the cliff the valley will be locked forever…

The entire area is a delight for anyone who appreciates ‘getting away from it all’, made easier by a lack of mobile phone reception. Its status as a protected site ensures that there is no development of the area and long may it remain so.

Words Sudhir “Banzai” Matai Twitter | Instagram
Photography INEOS

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ROADBOOK

CLASS: off-road adventure

NAME: Baviaanskloof

ROUTE: Patensie to Willowmore

COUNTRY:South Africa

Distance: 160 Miles

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