Detour #317: Driving the Surprising, Saw-Toothed Peak above Barcelona, Spain

Photo Porsche

Head out of Barcelona and away from the beach to explore one of Europe’s most dramatic mountains – and the fab roads around it.

You know it’s a good road when cyclists congregate upon it. The most thrilling, challenging and downright scenic passes across Europe see four wheels coexist with two far more cordially than in the crowded bustle of a big capital, heated insults thrown far less frequently so long as you’re driving with prudence. Which, as an enthusiastic Detourer, we suspect you probably do.

With caution and a fair wind, you can string a quick, satisfying flow together on these roads. Should a hard-working peloton appear ahead of you – lactic acid burning during the strenuous slog up the hill ahead – then it’s simply your signal to ease off the throttle, pop the windows down an inch to let the warmth roll in and your exhaust note burble a touch more palpably, and soak in the views.

Montserrat has those in abundance. Nope, not the Caribbean Island with its tortoise-like 20mph limit, but the epic, multi-peak mountain northwest of Barcelona. Bag a right-hand window seat on the flight down from the UK and you’ll see its curiously saw-toothed shape (Serrated Mountain being the Catalan translation of Montserrat) standing proud amongst the rural landscape before your plane arcs right at the coast. At which point you can marvel at the implausibly neat, octagonally patterned grid system of Barcelona city centre, a wonder in its own right…

The city is no place for driving kicks, though, so it’s time to brave the hire car queue for a bargain Ibiza (or similar) and pop Hotel Bruc in your satnav. This will take you on a 50km trek along the motorway – watch out for speed traps – and the beginning of the wonderful BP-1101. A rather prosaic name for a fabulous and flowing road, one which draws together everything we love above driving. Tight hairpins, long flowing corners, and views if not to die for, then certainly pull over, park the car and bask in the glory of.

Photo Porsche

Only 15 kilometres in length, this road is yours to enjoy back and forth at leisure, mindful of the cyclists who have likely come to do the same. Restaurants sit mercifully close to the road when you’re ready to sit with an ice-cold Coke, languidly prodding away at some tapas to refuel for another run.

A detour within a Detour, you should also peel off onto the BP-1103 – via a mildly perilous junction very close to El Bruc – for a closer glimpse of Montserrat’s quirky peaks and troughs, the highest of which is called Sant Jeroni (Saint Jerome) and nudges 1,236 metres. It’s walkable for the brave, while the Sant Joan Funicular provides a similarly intimate foray into the rockface with much less effort.

If you’re purely here to drive, there are lay-bys, car parks and observation decks dotted along this more touristic, 7km stretch of tarmac. These make ideal spots to acquire photographs of your car in situ – while also playing host to informal car meets for locals when work hours have ceased. There are some thrilling corners on this leg of the trip, too, it just so happens to be the busiest and most likely to be peppered with tourists in cars, buses or upon a saddle.

But, as we’ve already established, areas like this are where we can all pay reverence to a marvellous road and landscape as one big happy family. Bring your bike along and traverse the roads again, on muscle alone, for the full effect.

Words Stephen Dobie

Photo Porsche

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ROADBOOK

CLASS: Mountain Pass

NAME: Montserrat

ROUTE: El Bruc to El Bruc

COUNTRY: Spain

Distance: 27 Miles

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