Detour #193: Take the Rockies Road on Canada's Icefields Parkway

Photo Floris Seigers / Unsplash

The Icefields Parkway cuts through the Canadian Rockies at its finest. You’ll want to take this drive slow, reckons Kaya Lemaire.

The expansive quality to the Canadian Rockies pitches most aspects of this human experience into minute, ant-like insignificance. Even standing tall in the presence of these ancient, rocky giants you still feel…pretty small.

The urge to conquer the outdoors has driven humans up insane rock faces carved out by the Earth’s tempestuous elements – and down winding roads, into the depths of her valleys. Northwards on Highway 93 towards Jasper, Alberta, Mother Earth takes you high and low on the glorious and awe-inspiring Icefields Parkway.

There’s really no need to stop driving (although it’d be a shame if you didn’t) because every soul-crushingly beautiful view and vista is delivered in front of you, beside you, behind you — the Rockies hug the roadside, showing off their jagged, glacier-sheathed peaks around every bend and curve. You’ll want to take this one slow. Enjoy the pit stops, bring your hiking boots, a tent, and a sense of adventure. This is the Canadian outdoors at its finest.  

Most start the drive from Lake Louise, a popular glacier-fed lake enclosed by three national parks: Banff, Yoho and the Kootenays. Being a British Columbian gal myself, we drive in from Revelstoke through the Glacier National Park (a glorious ride in and of itself), then turn from Lake Louise to glide up the Parkway.

Moraine Lake Photo John Lee / Unsplash

Before hitting the 93, we take a quick detour up Moraine Lake Road to witness the infamous, stunning Apple desktop background in real life. And once your eyes have absorbed it all, rest in peace knowing you’ve seen one of the most beautiful natural wonders the world has on offer. Just kidding, there’s more – time to grab a park pass and hit the road. (Park passes for the drive can be purchased at the Parks Canada Tourist Office in Lake Louise, or other mountain towns in the region).

The 93 is a smooth, two-lane highway that’s open year round. However, in the winter season many of the side roads and amenities along the way are closed. Some scenic areas might also not be accessible due to icy conditions.

The drive from Lake Louise to Jasper takes an ‘average Joe’ three to five hours to complete. But why not spend your whole day, or two, exploring the crags and crevices of these 285 million old rocks? You’ve got enough lakes, vistas and hikes to last a lifetime.

Icefields takes you along straight stretches, around large curves, and climbs up towards the glacier-capped peaks that beckon you forth. The views pull you ahead no matter which direction you’re driving. The relatively straight road and wide curves allow you to spend most of your time soaking in the lush views that accompany you along the entire 23- km (143 miles) stretch.

The beginning of the journey takes you smoothly along the Bow River to Bow Lake, presenting you with a sublime view of the Crowfoot and Bow glaciers. Just five kilometres up the road, you’ll summit the Bow Pass – the highest elevation public road in Canada at a comfy 2067 metres. It’s the perfect pit stop to take in the aquamarine waters of Peyto Lake.

Peyto Lake Photo Johny Goerend / Unsplash

The only stop for gas is just after the Howe Pass Viewpoint in the Saskatchewan River Crossing, so stop here if needed, this is your last chance. Just note, you’ll pay a premium for this remote fill up.

With lighter wallets after filling up at The Crossing, we cruise up to the aptly named Big Bend. This section of the 93 has diverted Westward in an elongated bend situated between the awesome Weeping Wall Viewpoint and must-hike Parker Ridge trail. On maps the Big Bend mirrors the little finger curvature of your appendix, poking out of a straight, long stretch of emerald road. Behind the wheel you find yourself leaning into the gradual turn, as if you’re tracing the curvature of the Earth. Make sure to stop on top of the Big Bend at the–you guessed it–Big Hill for an incredible view of the road you’ve just travelled.

Enjoying ourselves a little too much, we decide to camp overnight. We stay at the Wilcox Campground, a remote, first come, first serve campground nestled nearby the popular Columbia Icefield and Athabasca Glacier – our mission for the following morning. You can book ahead to tour the glacier on a large-wheeled bus, or for the more adventurous, consider following the Toe of the Athabasca Glacier Trailhead for up close contact with the glacier and surrounding mountains.

Keep an eye out for wildlife as you’re coasting up towards Jasper. The Canadian Rockies are host to plenty of fascinating flora and fauna. We are really lucky to see a grizzly from a healthy distance – contrary to the warnings, it’s actually very rare to see one of these endangered giants out in the wild. We also spot a black bear, eagles, and moose, but there are plenty more creatures along the trails and around the bends. Take a pit stop at the Goats & Glacier Lookout, a popular wildlife area, and you might spot some mountain goats while you picnic.

Athabasca Glacier ahead Photo Ezra Jeffrey-Comeau / Unsplash

From one river to the next: we continue up the Icefields Parkway along the Athabasca River, fed by the Columbia Icefield we trampled on earlier that morning. The road glides easily up to the falls – a popular pit stop for good reason. Athabasca Falls crash into the glacial river below from a modest 23 metres, with a picturesque backdrop of Mount Kerkeslin, the highest peak in the Maligne Range.

Sneak in one more stunning hike before you land in Jasper, the bittersweet end to a drive with what has to be a world record of stunning views. The Valley of the Five Lakes Trail makes all of your Canadian wild dreams come true. Choose your adventure by hiking the one hour loop with Instagrammable seating areas, or opt for a slightly longer circuit around First Lake.

As you cross the Athabasca River and pull into Jasper, the forest blankets the land on either side. Your view widens as you coast into the valley where this alpine town nestles all year round. From skiing and hot springs in the winter to summer hikes, bikes, and canyoneering – it’s as Canadian mountain town-y as it gets. 

The end is near, so take a moment to breathe in the mountains. Feel the cool gusts of air sliding off the glacier, carrying scents of Pine and damp earth under your nose. Listen to the screech of an eagle overhead, cutting through the subtle engine rev as you pull onto Highway 16. Know that even though you’re leaving the Icefields Parkway behind, the experience of this ride will stay with you. The visions of those gorgeous giants hugging the road are burned in my memory forever.

The mountains are calling. Will you answer?

Words Kaya Lemaire

Photo Joshua Woroniecki / Unsplash

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ROADBOOK

CLASS:MOUNTAIN PASS

NAME: ICEFIELDS PARKWAY

ROUTE: LAKE LOUISE TO JASPER

COUNTRY: CANADA

Distance: 145 Miles

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