Detour #308: Mind The Gap, Kerala, India
Photo Paranjay Dutt
Kerala's famous Gap Road has recently had a makeover, so naturally Detour decided to head out to see what the fuss was about.
Often described as 'The God's Own Country', the Indian state of Kerala isn't just about the numerous places of worship. The tagline, coined by Kerala Tourism, fits the state well, though. Its relevance becomes clearer the more time you spend in Kerala, from its proximity to nature, the lovely locals and a burgeoning car culture, to the innate ability of the state to surprise you with nearly everything it does.
It's a bit of a crown for India, too, with the highest literacy rate and strong prosperity despite not completely surrendering to rampant capitalism. There are flaws in the system, I'm sure, but it beggars belief how this tiny southern state gets so many things right – one of which is driving roads. The recently updated Gap Road looks to be a promising example; it's full of corners, set amidst possibly the best of nature, and recently widened, it offers a chance to have a leisurely drive without having to worry about traffic build-up.
The easiest way to reach the Gap Road is from the city of Cochin (former name; officially called Kochi). It's a part of the Kochi-Salem National Highway about a hundred miles from the busy yet extremely characterful city in Kerala. If you take the Cochin-Aluva-Munnar route, you pass the Valara Falls, a twisty section of road, and a handful of towns on the way. Munnar itself is nearly always full of tourists, but with accommodation choices not limited to the town centre, you can pretty much stay away from the busier locales.
Should your benevolent navigation service decide to take you through Bison Valley a few hours beyond the sundown, proceed carefully. The valley itself is beautiful beyond words, but the roads can get worryingly narrow. My humble Suzuki hatchback doesn’t quite throw a fit navigating the numerous first gear hairpins but pitch darkness and the absence of streetlights mean my sweat glands are working overtime, especially closer to the end of the stretch. Despite being an hour or two too late to enjoy the last rays of the sun for the day, I do get to witness the Gap Road's clean tarmac with no mortal in sight.
It's not a de-restricted section and despite having to adhere to the official speed limit (which is absurdly low, according to many regulars), you'll find a lot to take in. It begins with tea estates on either side of the road, a lake or two in the distance, some drastic elevation changes, which make the drive interesting, and a few hairpins added to the mix. The mist rolling over the hills in the distance isn't to be ignored, and if you're lucky enough to catch the glorious light at sunrise or sunset, it just reaffirms why the Gap Road has become a favourite among travellers. I’m welcomed with torrential rain, but that only makes the lush greenery around it come alive.
Driving on the Gap Road is a memorable experience. It's easy to overwhelm the front wheels if you're carrying some speed into the corners, but it doesn't take too long to find the right rhythm. It must be repeated that this is a public road, and you have to factor in the fact that some people mightn't be as focussed behind the wheel. So, on the verge of sounding preachy, it's best to maintain a safe distance from others – and stay away from vehicles travelling as a group. Closer to the Idukki side, it becomes easier to stretch a car's legs. It's well-paved, the handsome array of corners ensures that you never get bored behind the wheel, and the undeniably dramatic vistas are a gift that keeps on giving.
Once you've enjoyed your time driving on the Gap Road there’s still plenty to do in Munnar. A trip to the Erivakulam National Park won't be a bad idea, considering you can spot the endangered mountain goat called the Nilgiri Tahr there. A visit to one of the local tea museums can be complemented by a factory visit, if you're inclined to know more about your cuppa and how it's made.
If you're adventurous, you can hire a 'Jeep' – which, in colloquial speak, is one of the lightweight Jeep-licensed Mahindras – to visit what's one of the highest tea plantations there is, Kollukumalai. Landscape photographers and nature lovers will also be able to appreciate the long list of viewpoints, trekking/hiking opportunities, and even the less explored wildlife sanctuaries around.
Avoid making a trip in the monsoon months and venturing out when it's dark isn't going to be the wisest idea, either. But time it right and Kerala has a lot to offer, and on the top of the list has to be its driving roads. And visiting the Gap Road sounds like a good start.
Words & Photography Paranjay Dutt
ROADBOOK
CLASS: scenic drive
NAME: Mind the Gap
ROUTE: Kochi to Munnar
COUNTRY: INDIA
Distance: 85 Miles
Kerala's famous Gap Road has recently had a makeover, so naturally Detour decided to head out to see what the fuss was about.