Detour #227: Chasing the rain on the road to Cherrapunjee, India

You’d better bring an umbrella if you’re taking a road trip to Cherrapunjee – it’s one of the wettest places in the world.

North-East India has always been elusive to me but my maiden trip has got me hooked so badly that I can't wait to come back for more. This collection of eight states showcases just how diverse the Indian culture is. And the geography is even more so.

A case in point is Cherrapunjee: one of the wettest spots, not just in the country, but the whole world. And with amazing winding roads surrounding it I just have to pack my best GoreTex gear and driving shoes.

It’s logical to make Guwahati, the capital city of Assam my starting point. It serves as a great entry to the North-East, thanks to the variety of connectivity choices: road, air, and railways. It also proves to be a neat place for a sojourn before one begins an exploratory drive into the depths of the easternmost part of the country. And a sojourn is most definitely required because there's so much to take in: from local tribes which have managed to shield their culture despite rampant urbanisation, a multitude of natural wonders (how does the idea of double-decker bridges made by trees sound to you?), and even villages where everyone has a song as their name?

Cherrapunjee was once known to receive the heaviest rainfall in India (450 inches of average annual precipitation, the Internet tells me), and while that honour is said to be claimed by a place not too far from the town, it continues to be a popular tourist destination. And it's not just about the destination, because, the loving locals were keen to add, driving to Cherrapunjee is as much fun.

The National Highway 6 is enjoyable to the T with frequent switchbacks and ever-tightening corners once you're away from the urban limits. The recent rainfall has scathed the tarmac to some extent, but despite that, maintaining a decent speed and carrying momentum through the corners in a sporting SUV is possible. An hour or so into the drive, as soon as I've found some rhythm, I’m greeted by the city of Shillong.

If you too are hopelessly in love with tiny Suzuki hatchbacks, modern iterations of Jeep CJs, and even the occasional two-stroke motorcycle, this is going to be heavenly. Mahindra utility vehicles with exceptionally wide wheels often break the monotony of the more pedestrian traffic followed by sightings of clean, left-field cars to further please one's heart. But even more endearing is the well-behaved traffic on the whole. There’s no one challenging long queues,  no one willing to risk it all by carrying on with a wrong-way escapade, and most importantly, nearly everyone indicates. What on earth...

Soon after that, the road turns into a single-lane State Highway, which means a reduction in space. The drive to Cherrapunjee only turns prettier from here, with the scenery opening up and clouds scattering over adjacent hills. The road, although not as wide anymore, now passes through lovely hamlets, with old houses on either side of the road overlooking the scene and the locals smiling and waving as I drive past them.

On the other hand, Cherrapunjee is a googly. Bright and sunlit, it doesn’t look like the image my Geography book had painted some two decades ago. Such a disappointment, one would think. In a matter of a few minutes, though, the scenery transforms. I can't quite put a finger on whether it’s the gradual arrival of fog or the sudden drop in temperature with a rather enjoyable drizzle, but it is suddenly a completely different place. The sky darkens as clouds lingered over the India-Bangladesh border, the rainfall becomes a lot more intense, and so does the chill in the breeze. Perfection!

A mix of good — if not entirely pothole-free — roads, great people, and the opportunity to experience India like never before together makes a trip to the Cherrapunjee well worth it.

It's true that when one encounters a collection of words like 'the wettest place', it's normal to expect some form of off-road driving. That wasn't the case here, but I'm told I wouldn't need to go too far if I wanted to scratch that itch. And to further pique my interest, a local mentioned that this is just barely touching the surface. Guess I know where my next drive will be...

Words Paranjay Dutt Twitter
Photography Shutterstock

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ROADBOOK

CLASS: chasing the rain

NAME: bring your brolley to Cherrapunjee

ROUTE: Guwahati TO Cherrapunjee

COUNTRY: INdia

Distance: 92 Miles

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