Detour #303: A Journey through Time on Utah’s Highway 12, USA
James Hearne gets schooled by Utah’s stunning rock formations as he travels Highway 12.
I found Geology a relatively uninteresting topic in school, yet as I fly along Utah’s Highway 12, I feel perplexed by the intriguing landscapes before me. The myriads of colours, textures, and unique shapes are unlike anything I’ve seen before. How can one singular stretch of road provide such a variety of terrain and a diverse collection of almost unnatural-looking rock formations? One certainty is that they make for one of the most unforgettable drives through America.
Over time, sedimentary deposits formed multiple layers of rocks with varying compositions. A shift in the Colorado Plateau caused these layers to uplift, creating ridges and canyons. Wind, rain, ice, and other factors gradually eroded the rock—each with unique characteristics that shape the spectacular formations visible to those lucky enough to drive Utah’s Highway 12. This road is a geologist's dream, and driving what has been dubbed “A Journey Through Time” is a delight.
Never in my life have the effects of geology been so clear. You’ll begin the route near Bryce Canyon, where Hoodoos sprout peculiarly from the vibrant orange rock of the Claron Formation. From there, you'll head to the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, a seemingly stark landscape. However, with a little exploring, you'll discover numerous slot canyons flowing beautifully through the Navajo Sandstone. Why Grand Staircase? Well, it’s a massive sequence of rock layers stretching throughout the area. Many of which you’ll see on this route revealing 550 million years of Earth's history.
From here, the road winds along the most magnificent section of Highway 12, known as Hogsback – a narrow ridge with breathtaking, endless views stretching in every direction. The area is almost entirely uninhabited, making the journey feel even more remote and awe-inspiring.
Continue norward along Utah’s lesser-known “Hidden Gem Highway” or, more simply, Highway 24, and you’ll be greeted with more otherworldly scenery. Capitol Reef boasts stunning red rock cliffs formed from Wingate Sandstone, Chinle Formation, Moenkopi Formation, and Entrada Sandstone. Goblin Valley State Park is home to more peculiar rocks primarily made from Entrada Sandstone and Wong Formation. And finally, you’ll find the soft, greyish-blue Mancos Shale found in the moonlike Swing Arm City. Every inch of this remarkable landscape can be enjoyed from the comfort of your vehicle as you motor along this bucket-list road.
Although, the 12 and 24 make up two of the United States' most scenic highways, a short distance from here you’ll find more incredible examples of the geology of this area. The Grand Canyon displays the world's largest cross-section of rock layers – displaying 1.8 billion years’ worth of geological history. Canyonlands also displays an impressive glimpse into the layered structure of our earth. Arches National Park is my favourite National Park in all of the Southwest – yet entirely different from anything else you’ll see on this drive. The Navajo Sandstone has left hundreds of iconic arches that are a pleasure to behold – especially at sunset. Zion is another park famed for its orange rock, and these are best viewed from another detour-worthy road. If you approach from the east, Zion Park Boulevard will feed you through Mount Carmel Tunnel, before spitting you out onto an unbelievable mountain pass with breathtaking views.
Lastly, if geology really is your thing, you need to drive slightly north of the 24 toward Dinosaur Monument. Here you’ll find an impressive example of the Morrison Formation which is part of the Mesozoic Era (250–66 Million Years Ago), and here lie pristine dinosaur remains and the perfect conclusion to this incredible road trip.
This drive feels as though someone has pulled the world apart, presenting a clear representation of the layers that make up our planet and how they’ve shifted to form the breathtaking scenery of America’s Southwest. Driving this road is like taking a journey directly from the earth’s crust, descending deeper and deeper, while admiring each incredible layer as you go – a truly educational experience.
Words & Photography James Hearne Instagram
ROADBOOK
CLASS: Desert Drive
NAME: Highway 12
ROUTE: Bryce Canyon TO Dinosaur National Monument, UTAH
COUNTRY: USA
Distance: 390 Miles
James Hearne gets schooled by Utah’s stunning rock formations as he travels Highway 12.