Detour #334: Riding Shotgun on the East Coast Road, Chennai, India

The East Coast Road, or ECR to its fans, is a popular route among Chennai’s classic car enthusiasts. Paranjay Dutt hitches a ride to find out why.

Sundays are when classic car owners the world over get together to exercise their aging automobiles and it’s no exception here in India.

ECR, or the East Coast Road in its modern form, was built in 1998 to connect the city of Chennai to its coastal villages. It has since been widened, expanded, and even extended longitudinally to reach what's the southernmost point of the country, Kanniyakumari. The importance of the route is said to have been noted in historical manuscripts going back a few millennia, under the prosperous Chola kingdom. I don't know if chariots did long drives, but even in comparison to the early days of ECR, it's not just become better but decidedly safer, too, this route. That matters even more when the classic car you're driving isn't quite up to modern standards of safety.

The ritualistic early morning cruise from Chennai (earlier known as Madras) to Mammalapuram or even Puducherry (earlier called Pondicherry) allows these cars to come alive. With the unending expanse of the Bay of Bengal on the left, well-paved tarmac especially on the new four-laned section, and the presence of wide (if not extremely strenuous) corners, early morning drives are a great way to start any day, but especially a Sunday. For those who haven't yet developed an ability to withstand the colossal mix of humidity and heat that the Chennai climate offers, it can take a while. But mornings are still pleasant, and classic car owners love to make the most of that.

As one of the regulars to frequent the route, Vijay Sundaram thinks it's a cathartic experience to stretch the car's legs on these weekend drives. He very kindly offers me the passenger seat in his MGB and it genuinely doesn't take any longer than a few seconds to see why this is so enriching. The widened section from Uthandi onwards enables a smooth flow of traffic, with the MGB nonchalantly sat at speeds most modern cars are used to averaging on the motorway. The electrically operated overdrive on his MGB means the BL engine isn't screaming as the speedo effortlessly climbs.

The wind buffeting isn't bad, the car seems eagerly waiting for driver input, and even as we intermittently slow down for the occasional jaywalker, it doesn't seem to protest. There mightn't be a whiff of petrol in the air like on say a two-stroke motorcycle, but it's a distinctly more engaging experience, especially with the B-Series engine's unquestionably pleasing note. And the road? Chennai classic car owners tend to do a morning drive as far as Mahabalipuram, which, a UNESCO Heritage site, is also known for its expansive beach and the presence of ancient temples. But, in the words of a Gen-Z, the combination of free will and adult money doesn't stop you there. You can in fact turn the weekend drive to the ex-French colony of Pondicherry.

Throughout the journey you'll find well-paved tarmac, but where Pondicherry surprises is through the remnants of French influence. The amalgamation of French and Tamil culture is unmistakable , as is the meticulously planned layout, at the heart of which are colourful bungalows and extremely clean streets. In some places, you tend to appreciate the stillness of the place, which is in stark contrast of the nearly frenetic nature of the rest of the city. You're bound to run into people from all walks of life, with many foreigners who've settled in the neighbouring township called Auroville. If you're health-conscious, you may wish to pay a visit to Solitude Farm, a fully sustainable farm and cafe that has won fans globally.

You won't run out of things to do especially in Chennai or Pondicherry but nothing quite compares to witnessing the daybreak on the east coast of India as the sun’s early rays alter the sky's tone, fisherfolk prepare for their journey into the sea, and the daily chaos just seems to be on the brink but not there yet. Appreciate the views, take in the energy, and prepare to scale the lovely ECR. It's even more fun when your choice of wheels is an uprated MG.

Words & Photography Paranjay Dutt

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ROADBOOK

CLASS: Sunday Drive

NAME: East Coast Road

ROUTE: Chennai to Pondicherry

COUNTRY: India

Distance: 100 Miles

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