Detour #315: Roving Like a Royal at Balmoral and the Cairngorms, Scotland

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This Highland fling takes in the majesty of the Cairngorms, traces the Old Military Road and ends with a dram or two.

Queen Elizabeth II loved nothing better than bouncing a Land Rover around the 50,000 acres of the Balmoral – especially with a foreign dignitary in the passenger seat. In the late 1990s Her Majesty terrified Saudi Arabia’s Prince Abdullah on one such tour of the estate. Later his Foreign Minister Prince Saud would tell the British Ambassador: “I suspect, ambassador, that Her Majesty steers the ship of state more steadily than she drives a Land Rover.”

Today you too can take a Land Rover tour through the grounds with a ranger, or stroll around the house and gardens which Queen Victoria and Prince Albert purchased in 1852.

Unless you’re making the trip in the depths of winter you won’t need a 4x4 to tackle the Old Military Road that takes you almost to the gates of Balmoral.

It’s part of a network of more than 1,000 miles of road originally built in the 1700s by the Government to prepare for a Jacobite uprising, many of which have long been forgotten.

Not this one, though. The A93 is a high-quality single-carriageway that takes you right into the heart of the Cairngorms National Park.

Start in the village of Rattray and cross the River Ericht to head north into the wild beauty of the Highlands. The warmup is fairly gentle as the road winds its way through open countryside, shaded by centuries-old trees planted to shade travellers along the way.

Between the trees you’ll get a glimpse of the rolling countryside progressively becoming more rugged as you approach Glenshee. The base for year-round mountain adventures is especially busy in the winter when the Ski Centre opens up its 25 miles of pistes. To get there you’ll need to climb the Cairnwell Pass, the highest road in the U.K. To reach its 2199ft summit drivers used to have to tackle a scary double hairpin known as the Devil’s Elbow, but that’s now been bypassed. So, while it’s still a spectacular drive it’s the views across the mountains that will take your breath away rather than fear of falling over the edge.

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If you’re ready for a pit stop then The Bothy Braemar a few miles further up the road serves homemade cakes and plenty of tea.

Balmoral is now just 15 minutes away, and it’s but a short detour on the B976 to reach its gates. When you’ve been royally fulfilled, follow the same road north towards Bush Craithie. Soon you’ll find yourself at the Ringing Stone, where you can pause to play a tune on this mysterious rock.

At Bridge of Gairn turn left onto the A939 and you’ll find the boutique Gairnshiel Lodge hotel should you fancy a true Highland treat.

Carry on past Tomintoul and by the time you reach Speybridge you’ll probably have developed quite a thirst. As luck would have it, you’re now right in the middle of whisky country where you’ll find the Glenlivet, Glenfiddich and Macallan distilleries all nearby. Time to park up and toast the end of this royal route with a wee dram or two.

Words Nik Berg Twitter/X | Instagram
Photography Shutterstock & Martin Bennie/Unsplash

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ROADBOOK

CLASS: ROYAL Drive

NAME: BALMORAL AND BEYOND

ROUTE: Rattray to Speybridge

COUNTRY: Scotland

Distance: 80 Miles

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